This op-ed piece in the New York Times defines fine and shopping in a way I don’t completely agree or disagree with. I think I just differ on emphasis. And I think it’s a symptom that’s spreading. How we go from shopping as being kind of fun, even if we hate to admit it, to dreadful is I think emblematic of larger forces in the economy.

What is the point of a Nordstrom, Macy’s, or Bloomingdales? To cater to middle class customers. That’s where the middle income consumer once bought “nice” clothes and accessories. There are two parts to that experience. The first is getting something that feels worth the money. That can be either because it’s hip or because it’s quality. Sometimes both. The point is, you give them money for something you feel is worth the money along some axis of value. The second part is the experience. That’s an attentive experience, meant to serve (if not slightly delight) the shopper.

I can’t say I’ve enjoyed going into a department store in years. First is the matter of quality. I have items I bought years ago and I just don’t find the same quality now. These were not exceptional. Just decent pants, shirts, suits, or sweaters. If I’m going to shop acrylic sweaters, Amazon is fine. There is no reason to spend $200 on an 85% acrylic, cable-knit sweater when virtually the same thing is available for $50 elsewhere. But moreover, the shopping experience isn’t there. Either you feel like you’re getting herded to the register as fast as possible or no one is around to ring up your items.

First, fewer and fewer companies own the stores in which you shop. Macy’s, Bloomingdales, and Blue Mercury are the same company. Nordstrom is independent, but Bergdorf, Sachs, and Nieman are the same company. Catalyst Brands holds Brooks Brothers, JC Penny, Nautica, and Eddie Bauer. It may seem strange that a mall with a half dozen major stores is only representing two companies. They may attempt to provide unique retail experiences, but there’s no long term advantage to running multiple stores. It’s unlikely the war between margin and profit may sometimes favor large sales volume at lower prices or a smaller sales volume at higher prices. We see consolidation across industries. Monopolies do not necessarily result in higher prices. They may result in lower margins, less choice, and lower quality. But most people only focus on price as the harm.

Second, tastes have changed. If you see someone in a suit, chances are they work for the government, they’re in sales, or they’re going to court in one way or another. Many people dress informally at work. Even though the once promised “age of remote work” is fading into the “return to office” reality, it does not mean suits are coming back. Even customer facing roles are much more casual than twenty years ago. Going to Macy’s to buy a suit is something the middle class worker is not doing as much. While I personally feel that dressing professionally encourages (but never guarantees) professional behavior. That is not a claim based in anything other than my supposition.

Third, the middle class itself is in the late stages of being gutted. Successful retail is bifurcating into low end retail (Walmart and Dollar Stores), and high-end retail. Target, once a discount retailer, is now considered “middle class.” The middle class retailers, ranging from Sears to Bloomingdales, have seen their customer base shrink and will continue to see it shrink. This is evidence of the worsening wealth income inequality in the US. In fact, the middle class retail sector has been rife with bankruptcies over the years.

But the fourth issue is what I think will ultimately kill most US retailers. That is the destruction of the brands themselves. When you buy a t-shirt or sweater from a retailer or a brand, it’s produced by the cheapest producer somewhere in the world. In some cases, the retailer or brand is just buying an already existing product. Why would consumers bother with a brand or retail premium, if already financially stressed, when the same goods are available on-line? The same manufacturer could be selling a sweater both through a brand or retailer and Amazon as one of a dozens of sellers. When the internet removes intermediaries, there is no reason for a brand or a retail experience.

These trends aren’t just effecting retail shopping at the mall. To a greater or lesser degree they are effecting many industries. A shrinking middle class, consolidation, and disintermediation will likely destroy legacy brands and retail channels over time. Surviving brands may become just nameplates or on-line names, with essentially the same product available through a variety of branded and non-branded channels. Would you buy an off-brand microwave? Would you buy an off-brand microwave if you knew that almost all microwave internals are made by just one company? Would you buy the off-brand microwave if the brand premium doubled the cost? Or just added a few dollars? Difference without distinction, a stressed consumer, and the ability for manufacturers to go direct may alter even automobile manufacturers.